Not much to do in Napoli. For three days, I lived off the hostel breakfast - a croissant and juice, and one pizza for dinner. The pizzas are the best and cheapest in Italy. Napoli itself had very little to do, but nearby Hercolano is well worth the trip. Having since been to Pompei, I can say with certainty that it is by far the better of the two. While the most interesting sights in Pompei are all closed for reservation, and take ages to walk between, Hercolano is like a fairy... magical and small! Paintings from 2000 years ago are still in an amazing state of preservation, while the mosaics on the floor of the baths put modern tilers to shame. The one group of skeltons, 4 people clutching each other in fear and covering their heads, is far too lifelike, and gives an excellent idea of the fear the victims of Vesuvius would have been feeling.
Before the ruins, I checked out the local morning markets in Hercolano... extensive markets selling everything from cheap jewellery and thongs to fresh olives and bargain cheap fruit. I bought some olives while walking around, and the seller did not believe that I only wanted 100 grams. At the third ladle I realised what she was up to and hastily took the bag before she could ladle any more in. Just outside the fresh seafood markets, a fisherman had just caught a large octopus, which took up nearly a whole bucket. It was wriggling around in confusion when I saw it, although I fear it didnt have much longer to wriggle before it made a particularly fresh calamari lunch for some lucky local.
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