Thinking we should see somewhere a tiny bit off the tourist track, we next headed to Zadar after Venice, taking the night train to Zagreb and from thence a bus to Zadar. After not sleeping at all because the customs people kept waking us up hourly in a kind of sleep torture as we passed through multiple countries (but we got stamps!), we didnt get seats on the bus, so I slept on the floor - which is probably the most comfortable way to sleep on a bus, anyway. Contrary to being off the tourist track, this place was well known to Germans, and almost everyone spoke Deutsch, and looked surprised when we didnt know any of it. Everywhere was ridiculously expensive and booked out anyway, and our options were looking thin. Luckily, on a visit to a campsite to see if there were any tents for rent, I met two Chilean women, who were also looking for a place. We buddied up and quickly found an apartment which we shared, which worked out at 15 Euros a night with a kitchen, bathroom, and view of the ocean - deal! We beached it up the first day, and had great fun. We didnt even know there was more to Zadar until the next day, when Vicki and I found a maze of alleyways, as all good European towns have, lined with marble pavestones and buildings. The Pekaras (bakeries) are amazing, and we discovered burek, which is a delicious feta-filled pastry that resembles a quarter of a gigantic pie. Zadar has some great beaches with crystal clear water, as well as a sea-organ, that blows sound generated by the motion of the waves against the shore. It sounds as peaceful as an Enya song, and imbues the shoreline with a magical element. At night, solar panels that have been charging all day unleash their power, transmitting an amazing light show on the ground under your feet.
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