Jordan - Amman and Jerash

  The sweet tobacco smell of apple sheesha lured me into the cafe below my third-story hotel (cliff hotel, 4.5 JOD/night pp) in Amman. Inside the all-men interior, the inhabitants played backgammon and cards or murmured to each other over small cups of strong, bitter Turkish coffee, all the while taking an occasional puff from their gigantic sheesha pipes adorning the floor around many of the tables. Unable to resist, I obliged my olfactory craving by taking a seat and ordering a coffee for Bec and I, as well as a sheesha pipe. While the waiter didn't have the best English, a nearby old man who was very prone to fits of coughing between puffs on his sheesha pipe directed the waiter on exactly what we desired, overseeing the whole operation with more than usual care – ordering tables from here and sugar for the coffee from there, he thought of absolutely everything we could possibly desire.

That old gentleman, I was soon to learn, is representative of the rest of the older Jordanian male population, who all taken the role of bossy but very kind and helpful grandfathers. There is no fear that you will be well taken care of; and well fed; in Jordan.

Every cell in my brain and every bud on my tongue was made to love the cultural banquet that is Jordan. I'm very glad that I listened to my Uncle Russell when he recommended a trip to this land, for I have been well rewarded. From the very moment that a plate of hommus and pita bread was placed on my table at Hashem restaurant, I have been very excited about this country, and the excitement hasn't ended.

Today we visited the extensive Roman ruins of Jerash, which saw me caught up in the artistic architectural wonders of gigantic pillars and magnificent arches. My imagination flew with the temple of Zeus and the Temple of Artemis, and the theatres were awesome. It saddens me that the same kind of effort isn't put into making beautiful structures today. Tomorrow, I intend to visit the Dead Sea and perhaps Mt Nebo, where Abraham purveyed the promised land.