Saturday, May 21, 2011

Kandy


 After a nice day spent in Colombo, we awoke early with designs on catching the 7am train to Kandy. All went as planned, and we purchased a third class ticket for 150 Rupees. It's nice now that transport is a viable cost again. The train journey to Kandy is the most beautiful train journey I have every taken in my life, with spectacular views over misted mountains covered in rainforest, and spooky tunnels where wraiths scream at you through in high pitched wails through the open windows as the solitary lightbulb swings from side to side. Despite the gasp-worthy scenery, it is difficult to take a good photo because of the tree cover on each side of the train. At one point on the journey, the tracks were flooded with a few inches of water, but the driver forged ahead. It was very exciting watching a train pass straight through currents of water, without a train track in sight.

Once arrived in Kandy, we were very impressed with the city. Once again, a profusion of bakeries decorated the town, which is built around a lake containing a highly manicured square island. We visited gem stores (Sri Lanka is known for its coloured gemstones, particularly rich blue sapphires), and bought a ticket to the local dance show in the evening. The performance was wonderful, with different costumes including local masks and whirling dancing, as well as acrobatics. The display culminated with a fire performance, including fire-breathing zealots in trances walking across hot coals that radiated heat even where we stood. After I had a dinner of chicken curry and paratha and a dessert of date slice and tea (food is more expensive in Kandy as it is a touristy area, the meal cost 400 Rupees in total), we retired to our hotel, which is a lovely house called Lake Top Inn. On the walk up the mountainside, I had my first ever sighting of fireflies, which are magical creatures akin to fairies – we saw three more on the way up the hill, and they put on a spectacular flashing display for us.

The next day, we relocated closer to town. The Old Empire was our choice, which is a lovely old colonial hotel near the Buddha's Tooth Temple. Sitting out on the verandah, we met a nice English-Australian couple, who we played a game of scrabble with. After the game, I bought some pepper gouda and a bottle of Chilean sem. Sauv blanc and together Bec and I enjoyed an excellent repast. After a visit to the Botanical Gardens, we were ready to move on from Kandy, to explore the Ancient cities of Dambulla and Anuradhapura.


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