Fatehpur Sikri, Agra and Banares

I have been all over since I last posted; I didn't get a chance to go online in Fatehpur Sikri because I was staying right next to the ruins, which are removed from town. My time at the Sunset view guesthouse was an amazing experience. The rooftop restaurant has grape vines growing around the balustrades, and the name is correct, the view of the sunset really is stunning at dusk each day. I was lucky to be there at the same time as Lin, a Korean wine taster on holiday for two months in India. While she has travelled all around northern India, she has returned 5 times to this one guesthouse, so she is very well received by the host. The first night I was there was her unofficial birthday, so at night after dinner we all celebrated with a party, consisting of many fruits, ice-cream... and birthday cake, candles and all! I was amazed and very warmed by the experience. The next night she informed me that she was leaving, and was once again having a party - this time a going-away party! Any excuse for celebration, I say! Her friend also happened to drop in at the same time, Hun-Chon (don't quote me on the precise name or spelling), a 25 year old Korean IT student, so we all had a massive dinner consisting of Bruno (buffalo, delicious and the closest I will get to beef in India, I savoured every bite!) in a curry, as well as Tandoori Chicken, Chilli Paneer (Paneer is indian cheese made from goat's milk), and tandoori roti. Before the dinner we indulged in Kingfisher beers and chocolate, both things I had been missing from home (well beer, not specifically Kingfisher). After dinner once again there were bountiful fruits and ice-cream! I was so pleased to have been here to experience this, it made what had been a difficult time in India much improved!

Thoroughly warmed and thankful for my great experience, I headed to Agra by bus. After having arrived, I dropped my bags at the train station (I was to leave for Varanasi at 23.30), and went to discover Agra! I ran into Mustaq, a rickshaw driver who I ignored until he offered me a rock-bottom price for a trip around Agra (which I initially didn't want). I'm very glad that I took that opportunity, as I got to see how Persian rugs were made, how marble inlay work was done, and the local jewellers, where amazing jewelled tapestries were on display. I bought a lovely peacock tapestry, and then went on to find the Taj Mahal. Apprehensive at the enormous entry fee (750Rp per person, 3/4 of my daily budget!) I entered thinking... this better be worth it! It was more than worth it, and I was awed by the experience... all that marble!

Since then I have arrived in Varanasi, which seems a little more tourist-friendly than other sites. My happiest discovery thus far has been a bakery, which I intend to visit tomorrow morning for pancakes with maple syrup... all these pancakes with no maple syrup was making me a very sad person! One step closer to my dream of having tea with scones and jam (my Imperialist side coming out, no doubt). Tomorrow morning, I will go for a dawn cruise of the Ganges to experience the life on the river!!